France's Finest: The World's Best Butter

In Brittany, butter is more than a cooking staple—it’s a symbol of culinary heritage woven into the fabric of daily life.

Jean-Yves Bordier, a master butter artisan, has revitalized the 19th-century practice of malaxage, a traditional method that involves kneading butter with a large wooden wheel to develop its unique texture.

This process, entirely manual, reflects a commitment to craftsmanship, from the careful churning and shaping to the final product.

Bordier butter is celebrated for its luxurious creaminess and delicate, complex flavors, which are enhanced by premium organic milk sourced from Brittany, Normandy, and Pays-de-la-Loire.

Sea salt crystals, such as those from Guérande, add a subtle crunch and a hint of minerality that elevates its taste profile.

Jean-Yves takes his craft further by offering tailor-made options for restaurateurs and food enthusiasts, customizing everything from the salt level to unique flavor infusions like seaweed, smoked salt, or even Madagascar vanilla.

In Brittany, where butter is a key part of the culinary tradition, this level of dedication sets Bordier butter apart.

It’s not just butter; it’s an experience—rich in history, artistry, and unmistakable quality. Here, locals don’t merely ask for butter; they request the butter, a true testament to its unparalleled excellence.

Bordier's History

In 1985, Jean-Yves Bordier purchased La Maison du Beurre (The House of Butter), a charming creamery located in the historic walled city of Saint-Malo Intramuros, Brittany.

While exploring the shop, he discovered an old wooden kneading machine, inspiring him to revive the 19th-century malaxage technique—a traditional method of kneading butter by hand to enhance its texture, flavor, and quality.

La Maison du Beurre quickly became a hub of artisanal butter-making, where Jean-Yves rejected industrial methods in favor of craftsmanship.

Sourcing milk from local farms and tailoring each batch to clients' needs, he elevated butter to a symbol of French gastronomic heritage.

The Bordier Process

Bordier butter begins its journey with the finest milk, collected exclusively within a 100-kilometer radius of the workshop.

This proximity ensures that the milk is fresh, high-quality, and supports local dairy farmers. From here, the milk undergoes a meticulous skimming process, separating the skim milk from the liquid cream.

The cream is already special—its beige hue hints at the natural richness and purity of the milk.

This cream, originally containing about 4% fat, is carefully concentrated to a luxurious 37–38%, creating the perfect base for Bordier’s exceptional butter.

The Churning Process

Bordier butter is a rare gem, with only 2–3% of French butter still crafted using the traditional baratte method.

This artisanal approach honors the integrity of the ingredients, allowing the butter to develop naturally and at its own pace—a stark contrast to the efficiency-driven techniques of industrial butter-making.

The process begins in Bordier’s signature churn, equipped with horizontal blades that gently agitate the cream.

Over two hours, the cream evolves organically, forming delicate butter grains as the buttermilk—a golden liquid byproduct—is separated.

This slow, deliberate churning method unlocks a rich depth of flavor and a uniquely creamy texture, qualities often lost in industrial methods that rely on rapid centrifugal force.

Following churning, the butter undergoes a meticulous cold-water wash. Far more than a cleansing step, the icy rinse tightens the butter’s texture and smooths its consistency.

It also removes residual proteins, minerals, and buttermilk, ensuring purity while extending the butter’s shelf life.

This attention to detail is what gives Bordier butter its refined character, celebrated for its nuanced flavor and remarkable freshness.

Malaxage – Kneading the Butter

After resting for 24 hours, the butter is kneaded on wooden malaxers. The wood, an anticorrosive material traditionally used in the early 20th century, gives the butter its unique texture.

The kneading process ensures even distribution of salt (2.9% for salted butter) and develops the butter’s smoothness, elasticity, and flavor.

At the start of kneading, the butter is coarse and crumbly, but as it is worked, it becomes supple and silky, offering a rich and long-lasting taste.

The artisans even use their hands to detect inconsistencies in texture. This meticulous process enhances the flavor profile, with the salty tears (small droplets of moisture) further concentrating the buttery richness.

Quality Control

Every batch of butter undergoes strict quality checks. Artisans compare un-kneaded butter with kneaded butter to observe the visible oxidation and color change.

This oxidation process, achieved during kneading, is critical for flavor development. The texture is also checked to ensure the butter has the desired silkiness.

Personalized Butter for Clients

Bordier offers unparalleled customization. Clients, especially restaurateurs, can specify the butter's weight (from 20g to 10kg), shape, salt content, and even unique flavorings.

Some chefs send their own ingredients, which Bordier evaluates for compatibility. Seasonal and exclusive butters, such as Espelette pepper butter or smoked salt butter, are also crafted.

Shaping and Packaging

Once kneaded, the butter is weighed and shaped to client specifications. Small 125g packs or larger blocks are produced.

The process is entirely manual, with artisans working in rotation to avoid fatigue and maintain passion.

About 30% of the butter is sold in Bordier boutiques, 30% to restaurants, 30% to retailers, and 10% is exported to 30 countries, including Thailand, Singapore, and various European destinations.

Cooking with Bordier Butter

Bordier butter is cherished in kitchens worldwide, including Michelin-starred restaurants.

Chefs use it to elevate dishes with its rich texture and flavor. For example, scallops with Japanese breadcrumbs and lemon butter sauce showcase the fusion of French and Japanese cuisines.

Legacy

Bordier butter reflects the pride of French gastronomy. Its tailored production ensures each batch is unique, crafted with the same care for a local customer as for an international one.

This commitment to excellence and tradition makes Bordier butter an exceptional and treasured product.