Diving for Sea Urchins: The Haenyeo Life
Haenyeo, meaning "sea women" in Korean, are an aging group of female divers based on Jeju Island, South Korea. These women brave the ocean daily, collecting sea urchins and sea snails to provide for their families and support their children.
Who Are the Haenyeo?
Haenyeo, meaning "sea women" in Korean, are the legendary female divers of South Korea, particularly from Jeju Island.
Known for their remarkable strength and resilience, they have mastered the art of free diving to harvest marine treasures such as sea urchins, abalone, and seaweed.
Without the aid of modern diving equipment, these women dive to impressive depths, holding their breath for minutes at a time.
Their unique way of life, passed down through generations, represents an extraordinary blend of tradition, survival, and environmental stewardship.
History of Haenyeo
Most of Korea’s haenyeo community is concentrated on Jeju Island.
Historically, Jeju haenyeo migrated to the mainland, settling along coastal areas, and also moved abroad to places like Japan, Dalian and Qingdao in China, and Vladivostok in Russia.
During the mid-20th century, around 2,800 Jeju haenyeo relocated to mainland Korea, while approximately 1,600 ventured overseas.
Records suggest that haenyeo have been part of Korean culture for over a thousand years.
Initially, both men and women participated in diving activities—men, known as "pojak," focused on catching abalone, while women, called "jamnyeo," mainly collected seaweed and other marine plants.
Women far outnumbered men due to high mortality rates among men who perished at sea during fishing trips.
Over time, as the demand for abalone as a government tax commodity grew, women took on the responsibility of harvesting it, marking a significant cultural shift toward female-led diving practices on Jeju.
The Physical Toll of Diving
Diving into frigid waters comes with a host of physical challenges. One of the most dangerous is leg cramps, which can become fatal underwater.
To combat such risks, haenyeo wear specially designed rubber suits that vary in thickness, from 3mm to 5mm, depending on water temperature.
These suits are vital for maintaining body warmth and ensuring mobility. Even a minor difference in thickness can drastically affect their endurance and safety during long dives.
Traditional Attire and Modern Tools of the Haenyeo
In the past, haenyeo wore traditional work clothes known as mulot, meaning "water clothes."
This attire included the muljeoksam (a "water jacket") for the upper body, the mulsojoongi ("water intimates") for the lower body, and a head covering called mulsoogeon ("water towel").
The introduction of rubber wetsuits in the 1970s revolutionized their work, providing better protection and improving efficiency. Today, all haenyeo use these modern wetsuits.
One distinctive piece of equipment unique to haenyeo is the tewak, a small, bright orange buoy.
This flotation device allows them to rest on the water's surface and doubles as a life jacket. The tewak also includes a mesh bag underneath where haenyeo store their catch.
For harvesting, haenyeo use a specialized steel tool called a bitchang to pry abalone off rocks.
This tool is attached to their wrist with a rope for easy handling. Other tools, such as the kkakkuri and golgaengi, help them access tight spaces and turn over rocks, ensuring a more thorough harvest.
Communication Through "Sumbisori"
Beyond their physical tools, haenyeo rely on Sumbisori, the distinctive exhalation sound made upon resurfacing.
This sound is more than a tradition; it’s a critical safety measure.
The absence of Sumbisori signals immediate danger, alerting nearby divers to potential emergencies.
It represents the fine balance between survival and disaster in their line of work.
Bulteok: A Resting Haven for Haenyeo
A bulteok is a circular stone structure by the coast, once vital for haenyeo. It served as a sheltered space where they could change clothes, light fires to warm up after diving in icy waters, and rest away from strong winds.
In these communal spaces, haenyeo cooked their catch, shared harvesting tips, exchanged stories, and bonded over personal tales and local gossip.
While bulteok were once common along Jeju’s shores, modern dressing rooms introduced in the 1980s have largely replaced them. Today, only about 70 bulteok remain, standing as relics of a bygone era.
A Life on the Edge of Death
For haenyeo, abalone is the most prized and valuable seafood they harvest. Known for their incredibly strong grip on rocks, even men often struggle to dislodge these mollusks.
Haenyeo rely on a tool called a bitchang to pry abalone from rocks. However, there are times when the tool becomes stuck, forcing the diver to abandon it and resurface for air.
The bitchang is secured to the diver’s wrist with a rope, but in rare cases, the rope can become tangled, leading to tragic accidents.
The sharp volcanic rocks beneath the water pose another significant threat, as getting wedged between them can result in serious injuries or death.
Poisonous marine life, such as jellyfish, adds to the risk, and although rare in Jeju’s warm seas, occasional shark sightings further heighten the dangers of diving.
Despite the inherent dangers, haenyeo approach their work with remarkable resilience.
Their philosophy, “If not today, then tomorrow,” reflects an enduring faith in the sea’s bounty and their ability to persevere.
Each dive is a testament to their courage and respect for nature’s rhythms.
Harvesting the Best: Gapado’s Sea Urchins
Gapado, a small island off the southern coast of Jeju Island in South Korea, is known for its pristine waters and unspoiled natural beauty.
This idyllic location provides the perfect environment for harvesting premium-quality sea urchins.
Gapado’s sea urchins are regarded as among the finest in the world. These delicacies are prized for their sweetness and lack of bitterness.
To maintain their quality, haenyeo take meticulous care to shield them from sunlight and rain, which can degrade their flavor and texture.
Extracting the urchin meat requires precision tools and an expert touch to avoid damaging its fragile structure.
Beyond Urchins
In addition to sea urchins, haenyeo harvest premium shellfish such as abalone and sea snails, each with distinct characteristics that make them highly coveted in South Korean cuisine.
Abalone is prized for its firm texture and delicate, sweet flavor and frequently used in luxurious dishes such as abalone porridge or grilled abalone, symbolizing prosperity and health.
Sea snails, on the other hand, are known for their chewy texture and briny taste, making them a popular ingredient in both traditional soups and modern seafood platters.
The process of harvesting these shellfish is labor-intensive and requires a keen eye and steady hands.
Abalone, for instance, must be carefully pried from rocks with specialized tools to avoid damaging the shell or the meat inside.
Sea snails are often found in hidden crevices, requiring haenyeo to navigate through challenging underwater terrain.
Protecting a Cultural Treasure
Today, many haenyeo are in their seventies and eighties, yet they continue to dive with extraordinary resilience.
Their profession is more than a livelihood; it’s a cultural legacy that requires preservation.
The risks they take and the expertise they wield make their contributions invaluable, not only to their communities but to global culinary heritage.
A Lasting Heritage
The life of a haenyeo is both arduous and fulfilling. Their story is a powerful reminder of the human spirit’s ability to endure in the face of adversity.
By honoring their heritage, we celebrate a tradition that enriches global culture and cuisine, preserving the timeless bond between humanity and the ocean.
